Exploring Nature

Yearning for an escape of mundane routine, seeking horizons that stretch out and wanting to savour fresh clean air, a coastal walk seemed like the thing to do. There is nothing like taking five days and disappearing from mobile connections or the world beamed to you through the periscope of TV to get Out There. With autumn approaching the Garden Route seemed like the perfect place to be. A bit of research reveled the Garden Route Trail as an ideal slackpacker option. Five days of nature with two canoe stages sounded perfect.
Starting in Wilderness National Park, the first day was a combination of relaxed canoeing up the Touw River for 2km before beaching on a river bank. After a detailed description of the forest ecology and the 'energetic economics' by our guide, we set out along the newly fininshed boardwalk through the forest canopy to a waterfall with a series of rockpools. An ideal place for lunch and a relaxing swim you would not be forgiven thinking that you had dropped off the planet. Returning to the canoes, the bird life woke up from it's siesta and the canopy sang with life, punctuated by the spectacular flash of red as Knysna Turaco's swooped between trees overhead. Veering off the Touw river for a paddle along the Serpentine was like being telported to the hart of the Okavango Delta as the river, much like it's name, snaked through tall reeds glowing warm in the late afternoon sun. Returning to the rest camp and relaxing in the reserve we already felt as if part of our life had shed from us.
For remoteness and escaping civilization, day two had to epitomize the process of leaving it all behind. Descending down a sandy dune and walking at the base of towering fossil dunes with the waves lapping close by, you are guided towards your lunch destination at Gerikes Point. But this is where it becomes blatantly apparent that Garden Route Trail is not merely a coastal walk. The informed knowledge from the guide about every thing you see is astounding. And this is only the second day, yet already you are looking at plough shells with interest and searching for African Oystercatchers. For more than three hours you don't see another soul, well maybe one or two fisherman, but otherwise the beach is empty and disappears over the horizon. The lunch stop offers swimming in the waves or snornkling in rockpools, and if you watch the bay carefully the glimpse of two Humpbacked Dolphins. From there, a quick walk gets you to Kingfisher Creek, the lagoon mouth at Sedgefield, which because it was open was crossed in a row boat before arriving at the evening accommodation.
Day three started with a 9km beach walk past towering dunes with a cormorant colony clinging to some of it's narrow ledges. A balance of sandy bays hedged between tumbling rocky outcrops, the memory of home life disappeared from all thoughts. Here you could stop and soak up the sun and silence with only the waves and gulls to disturb you. All the time time you are being provided with detailed information on the geology and ecology of the region. At times it feels like your eyes have been opened and for the first time you are seeing and not just looking at nature. Exiting the beach at Oysterbay seems impossible as you are led up the 'cliff', but don't stand still otherwise the ants will have you dancing with their sharp bites. From here, you are immersed in fynbos and Milkwood forest before breaking out on the shore of the Goukamma River. This time you cross the river either by swimming or on a small pont - a system of ropes attached to a small row boat, for a short walk to the thatched rondavels for the next two night. Placed to overlook the river and face the sunset, the only thing that is missing in this setting is a herd of elephants and buffalo drinking at the waters edge. But there is a pair of Fish Eagles to add to the ambiance.
Day four is a wonderful discovery of the Goukammma Nature Reserve, canoing up stream to find the old nesting site of the Fish Eagles and a resident Spotted Eagle Owl before walking to the highest point on the dunes. The dinner, a spicy 'potjie' on the third night may have been spectacular, but the seafood spread of prawns and tuna kebabs on the final night was simply fantastic. Reflecting on everything that we had done, the diverse terrain traversed, the variation of daily activities it was with reluctance that we settled down for our final night.
Finishing off on the 5th day was a walk over a floodplain and along the beach first to Buffels Baai and then onto Brenton on Sea to reluctantly climb onto a shuttle to return to Wilderness. Garden Route Trail is more then a coastal walk, it is a purging and reviltalization of the soul, it is an education of nature and a demonstration of people passionate about what they do, a rare commodity in todays world. This was more than a walk, it was an inspiration to cherish nature and life, to shrink my carbon footprint and to plan my next  outing to Get Out There. Ciao...
Facts about the trail:
Location : Wilderness in the Garden Route
Fitness level : medium, though you will feel tired on the second day
Terrain : mostly flat, either on paths or beach, highest point 120m above sea level
Duration : 5 days, but a 3 day option is offered
Distance : 63km
Contact : walk@gardenroutetrail.co.za