Exploring Nature

 I was first amazed by Ella at a meeting - she sang the 'click song' in Xhosa to a group of tourism members towards the end of 2008. My next encounter with her was when she gave a report back on her attendance at Indhaba to a tourism AGM - this lady captivated the whole audience with her fresh perspective and ideas. Apparently she had also captivated the international crowds at Indhaba, receiving numerous invites to tour there and to host no less than 12 German Choir members towards the end of the year. Part of her spirit led her to create Emzini Tours, a township tour to Nekkies and Concordia north of Knysna. With nature as my focus, the prospect of immersing myself into the urban clutter of a township did not rate high on my list of things to fill a free morning with. However, unable to resist Ella's invite to experience a tour, I set out with her and Penny from Emzini Tours (www.emzinitours.co.za) on Tuesday. Setting out, we started discussing the plight of dogs in townships which was a warning that we most likely would stop to collect any creatures that might appear to be unkept. Our first stop was at Godwin, a Ghanian skilled in blacksmith and gunsmith skills. Unable to get work in his filed of training he rehas resorted to  opening a hair salon. And when the extension trade is slow he doubles up as a cobbler, apparently both professions a steady income for Ghanians residing in SA. From there we had a short drive to a Nigerian restaurant. Neat, well sign posted, the menu board had a host of interesting and foreign dishes listed, the basis which seemed to be beans. Both businesses where conducted out of old containers next to a taxi drop off point.
From there we went in search of the township big 5 - a collection of creatures to be found roaming the streets, curbs and garden of the sprawling shacks. Donkeys, cows, pigs, goats and dogs were everywhere and similar to the Zebu of India, seemed to have right of way on the streets.

Our next stop was the Paula Whitney Pre School of Nekkies. 70 pre school kids between 3 and 5 years old attend this unfunded school run by Nonkosi & Zanokhanyo, two very dedicated teachers. I was amazed when the group hug process started - all the kids lined up, only to pleased by the distraction from routine class activities and launched themselves at us for a hug and a photo. There is something to be said about the pleasure of hugging 70 kids! Un raveling from the mass of kids, attention was focused on a Danzel, a youngster looked after by Hospice and supported by local Knysna residents. He received gifts of new hand painted T-shirts. But that was not all, nest the whole class grouped together to treat us to a concert of Xhosa, English and Afrikaans songs, all choreographed with hand and body swings. Finishing off with Nkosi Sikelila, their pride in their singing and their country was blatantly apparent by their holding of their hands over their hearts.This was an uplifting encounter that will remain in the memory banks for years to come, enhanced by the fact that the school is unfunded and is in need of some serious repairs and maintenance deeper than a can of paint. I will endeavor to proposed this as a conference activity to corporate delegates in the Garden Route.

Our journey then took us into a ladies collective that produces a host of household items from aprons to cloths peg holders. Once again, a wonderful product range, but limited market exposure. They need a shop to carry their line so they do not rely on local tours as their sole market.

By now it was time for refreshments and we slowly drove to Ella's house in Concordia. This area has been slowly upgraded with RDP houses, but there is resistance to houses being built. From Ella's account, a family can receive a RDP house if they earn less than R4000.00/month. Most of the shacks are on municipal land and thee property size is dependent on what has been staked out. The resistance to the new houses comes from the perception that thee property size will reduce when the occupants of a shack accept a RDP house.

Reaching Ella's house we met her man, Guy (from Congo) who runs a sparsa shop on their property and her rescued dogs. When you do this tour, wear cloths that you don't mind dog paw prints on. Tea with Ella and Penny was more than a glimpse into intricacies of life in a township, her journey as a child on a farm in the Eastern Cape to the proudly South African role model that she has become. In short she is the protector of the oppressed, advocator of excellence and patron of the underprivileged.

Caught up in the conversation and exchange of ideas, we were interrupted by a call - the drummers wanted to know when we would arrive. Back into the car, cheers to the dogs, we first had to stop in at another creche to drop of a donation of fees for Nu Nu, another underprivileged child that Ella has managed to secure support from local Knysna residents. Finally we set out to the drummers.
 
For the past 10 years I have maintained that the best real estate in Knysna is on the ridge east of Simola, the hart of the township. There is no view that can compete with what these residents have. And here Colin and his drumming group have a home and entertained us in their uncompleted extension of their home. As a non drummer, at the end of 15 minutes I was drumming along and I am sure that given a few hours practice I could get hooked. All things must come to an end and it was reluctantly that we headed down Grey street to return to the hustle and bustle of Knysna. And of course Penny wanted to drop a puppy that we had collected on the off at Animal Welfare.

A wonderful day, uplifting and insightful.

Would I do it again - most definitely. And I can gladly recommend Emzini Tours to go with. And convince Ella to sing the 'click song'