Exploring Nature

Gliding 2 meters from the river bank Dale and Garth are arched back in their canoe peering up into the Camphorwood leaning over the Goukamma River. An explosion of flash lights up the scene as Dale photographs a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls roosting on the open branches. We are on a canoe trip looking for birds, the specials being the owls we have just past and a pair of Fish Eagles that are reputed to have nested along this stretch of river for over 27year, that is until the Yellowwood tree that their nest was in washed over in the November floods of 2007. Though they seem not to have rebuilt a nest, they remain along the river announcing their territory with sunrise, noon and sunset calls.

The Garden Route has a variety of rivers, all of them tainted with the dark tannins of the Fynbos. Draining a short watershed (only 19km from mountain ridge to shoreline) most of the rivers are blind estuaries closing with a sand bar across their mouth in the drier months when flow rates are down and when high tides deposit sand. Between Wilderness and Keurbooms, there are some wonderful rivers to paddle, an escape to primal nature. Rarely, when there are heavy rains, the rivers surge and the local white water enthusiasts rejoice as they have 48 hours to harness the rapids.

For the rest of us that enjoy the tranquillity of paddling, there are four rivers that offer their own special ambiance. A dramatic and shorter paddle, and by far the most popular, is the Touw River in the Wilderness National Park. A distinct transition from open wetland to steep forest lined slopes, this river has scenes that could well have motivated Conrad for his Hart of Darkness. Skimming the water the chorus of Knysna Turaco, Olive Bush Shrike, cuckoos and kingfishers surround you and for that brief moment you shed all contact with civilization. The paddle is a perfect way to access the popular Giant Kingfisher Trail.

For the true nature lover, navigating onto a tributary, the Serpentine River, emulates a section of the channels in the Okavango Delta. The river aptly named, twists through every direction of the compass as you snake your way 5.1 km to Island Lake. Not only is the fact that you are in the centre of Wilderness with very little human evidence appealing, but this has to be one of the best water fowl sites in the Garden Route. Here Purple Heron, Marsh Harrier, Purple Swamphen, Little Bittern and if you are fortunate, African Jacana abound amongst others.

Another favourite is Goukamma River, a meandering river passing forest, meadows and sand dune cliffs. The forested sections offer spectacular birding, the busy avian activities undisturbed as you glide below. The cliffs are spectacular and present photogenic reflections in the dark waters. Amongst the numerous spoor and tracks on the dunes, an observant eye will pick out a set of fossil footprints, most likely from an otter some 10 000 years ago. On one of the eroding banks there is a developing colony of nest tunnels of Sand Martins, Malachite and Giant Kingfishers, Black Sawwings and swallows. This is a patient river and will reveal some of natures secrets to the patient paddler.

An underutilised river is without a doubt the Knysna River which becomes the better know lagoon. But upstream of the N2 bridge offers an unexpected escape from the bustle of the main town. Upstream passes quiet meadows, incredible geology and a tranquil picnic site providing a generous day outing for lovers and families.

For those looking for longer paddle there is the Keurbooms River further east. A deep gorge that takes you northwards, there is an overnight hut that makes this a magical getaway for the self sufficient paddler. The lower reaches of the rivers can be distracting with powerboats and skiers, but once you pass the limits of their permit, you are plunged into nature, a deliverance without the forest folk. Here you can even keep a wary eye out for leopards coming down to drink and most definitely Genets are around your evening campfire.

For guided canoeing, birding and nature walks visit www.gardenroutetrail.co.za