Offroad BMW GS Adventure Motorbike Trip

So die dag het uiteindelik aangebreek. Na maande en maande van soek het ons toe net die regte motorfiets vir my opgespoor.

Die keuse was altyd tussen 'n BMW Dakar of die Yamaha XT. Die BMW was net 'n bietjie te duur vir iemand wat nog nooit 'n bike gery het nie so toe besluit ons op die XT en net 5000 kilos op die klok was dit 'n 'great' koop.

Ek het mos laas jaar in Maart die Beginners BMW kursus by Zwartkops gedoen, maar dit was die eerste en laaste keer dat ek self 'n bike gery het. 

Ek was baie opgewonde oor die nuweling in ons 'garage' maar nogals senuweeagtig om dit nou 'for real' te doen. Maar my aansporing is en was nog altyd om nie net meer die girl wat agterop ry te wees nie maar nou die girl wat die bike self ry te wees! Dit wil mos gedoen word....

Ek en Eugene pak toe maar die ding een Saterdagoggend in ons tuin aan. Ek klim in my bike gear en daar gaat ons, ek en my XT. Dit was bietjie wankelrig en die honde se geblaf het nie baie gehelp nie. Die grasperk is maar ongelyk en ek moes heen en weer oor die gruis van die 'driveway ry', los klippe en al. Maar dit was uiteindelik die dooie klein pruinboom wat my teiken word. Dis asof die boom daarvoor gevra het, ek pyl toe sommer op hom af en toe ek moes uitdraai toe kry ek nie my draai nie (want ek het skoon vergeet om die bike se stuur te gebruik).  Ai toggie, so daar's toe my eerste 'slo-mo' val. Die boom lyk minder goed en my bike het 'n paar ligte skrapies waar die linkerkant se stickers is. Eugene meen toe ons kan maar net die sticker vervang!

Ek dink hy was stilweg baie ontsteld want hy het nog nooit sy bike gekrap nie wat nog van in 'n boom vasry! Ek dink so tussen my en julle dat ek myself maar moet voorberei vir sulke klein, kom ons noem hulle maar 'insidente'. Dis nou maar so, mens werk maar aan die 'self-confidence' en hoe meer mens ry hoe meer kry mens reg.

Ek het begin agterkom dat dit beter is om vinniger te ry as om te poer-poer want as mens stadig ry is balans baie moeilik! Maar in elkgeval na die boom insident wou ek net mooi niks weet van die tuin nie en stel toe voor dat ek eerder op die teerpad gaan ry. So, Eugene sit toe op die sypaadjie voor die hek, die honde is aan die binnekant van die hek. Ek maak dit tot in die straat sonder om die honde dood te ry en sonder om in die hek-paal vas te ry. Draai toe regs en daar gaat ek innie pad af. Hie-ha! 

Shoe, ek kan sommer sien hoe ek konsentreer! Maar teer is soveel makliker as ons hobbelrige grasperk en doodgerypte pruimbome, dis verseker. So toe ry ek lekker op en af in die straat. Die hantering is maklik en ek raak meer en meer gewoond aan die rattewisseling ensovoorts. Dis so lekker ek juig sommer van opgewondenheid.

Die langnaweek breek toe aan en ons sleep die twee bikes op die sleepwa Margsol toe, 'n vakansieplaas van ons vriende, wat 'n paar kilos buite Nelspruit op die Lydenburg pad is. Dis 'n plek waar ons groep vriende al vir jare en jare bymekaarkom. Ek en Eugene het daar getrou so vir ons is dit altyd magies daar.

Margsol word ook uitverhuur teen R1500 per aand. Dis 'n plaas wat bestaan uit 'n hoofgebou met twee badkamers, sitkamer met heerlike vuurmaakplek, spens en kombuis. Voor die vertrek is 'n groot lapa met tafel vir 10 mense wat uitkyk op die beboomde tuin. Dis asemrowend mooi. Die kamers bestaan uit 7 aparte rondawels, elk met slaapplek vir twee mense. So die hele plek slaap 14 mense. Kontak vir Theuns Naude op 082 808 9684 vir meer inligting.

Ek het genoem dis 'n plaas en die pad voor die huis is so bietjie weggespoel want dis maar grond en groot boulders so dis nogals moeilik om jou balans te hou, veral vir iemand wat nie so goed is op die bike nie. Maar ek doen dit toe heel maklik. Eugene ry vooruit op se GS en ek volg hom. Dis my eerste keer op 'n grondpad en ek is verbaas oor hoe maklik die bike hanteer. Ek bekommer my gladnie oor die pad nie ek fokus op die ratverandering en hantering, en ek hoop om nie my g*t te sien omdat ek iets simpels aanvang nie, maar dit verloop toe buitengewoon goed.

Ek ry selfs deur waterplasse en bo-oor klippe en grondwalle, niks te groot nie, net wat mens maar op  'n grondpad verwag. Na 'n rukkie staan ek sommer op die footpeggs. Dit het regtig goed verloop en ek voel so goed dat ek vir die eerste keer op grond gery het sonder om af te val of in 'n boom erens vas te jaag. LOL.

Later die dag het ek weer die bike voor ek nog by die hek wegtrek laat val want ek het hom gestol. Alle pogings daarna was hopeloos, ek kon net die lekker ry nie. So toe gee ek dit 'n breuk vir 'n paar dae en toe is die self-versekeriing weer terug.

Nou ry ons elke naweek in die buurt rond en elke keer gaan dit beter en beter. Ek gaan binnekort vir my Learners en dan vir my liksens!

So, vir julle wat dit al vir jare doen, cheers en vir julle wat te bang is, moenie bang wees nie, doen dit net, dis 'n great ervaring en gee mens tonne selfversekering. Dis maar dieselfde as om te leer motor bestuur. Dieselfe goed 'freak' mens uit, soos om teen 'n steilte weg te trek en om te stop wanneer mens moet stop, en te kyk wat rondom mens aangaan ten alle tye.

Ek kan nie wag om beter te raak en langer trips te doen nie. Dit gaan nog lank neem om alles goed te kan doen so ek gaan aanhou oefen, en sal graag 'n ekstra kursus of drie te doen. So, stuur vir my die details van kursusse vir girls asb.

So, hierso's op my en my nuwe bike. Mag ons nog baie veilige myle ry.

En as ek eendag groot is gaan ek 'n BMW kry.

Einde

Ask anyone who as ever done the Baviaanskloof and they’ll have a great

story to tell about their experience. Most will say that the crossing of

the rivers tested their guts, some will tell you the huge boulders and

loose rocks were like a nightmare come true and others that the

heat was the most unbearable part of their trip. Everybody though,

will agree that it was spectacularly beautiful and almost everybody

will declare that they’d like to do it again.

By the time we were ready to leave Gauteng for the Eastern Cape and more specifically,

Baviaanskloof, we’d heard just about every story imaginable, some interesting and

others; well let’s just say, hard to believe. Nonetheless, we could not wait to

get there so we could see for ourselves.

Patensie is guarded by the majestic Cockscomb Mountains and situated in a citrus

producing area which is well known for its oranges, the Kouga Dam and Tolbos, the

local country shop. Tolbos is a landmark in the Gamtoos Valley and also serves as the

local tourist information centre. The restaurant serves delicious meals and the shop

provides everything you might need to stock up for your trip. We can recommend their

famous orange blossom honey and tomato and chili relish!

The next morning we stocked up the cooler boxes with drinks and snacks

and enough food for the braai that evening. It was a bit overcast which

made it nice and cool. The last thing we needed was for the clouds to

become heavier and for it to start raining as it would mean the end

of our trip, but the guys were positive that it would not rain and we set off

on our great adventure;  Renier on his GS in front,  Eugene and I following a few

meters behind, and Heleen, Gus and Val in the 4 x 4 behind the bikes.

Once on the way, it quickly became evident that nothing we had heard about this trip

could have prepared us for the actual real-life experience. The first 60km which were

easy, went quite quickly. But at one of the stops Gus, who had done the trip in a 4x4

before, explained that we were just about to enter the real challenge.

We took the T1, but you can also take T2 or T3, all of which are

different routes

through the same

mountain range.

With Gus’s words still in my head we passed through the first Nature Conservation

gate and with it the level of difficulty of the road changed. It became harder to negotiate,

the cliffs to our right became high and steep and the vegetation more dense.

I was glad that we were on the bike because driving on the edge is much less scary than

in a car. We soon realised that the uphills and downhills, sharp turns to the left and right;

narrow roads and river crossings were going to be part and parcel of today’s trip.

The Baviaans is one of the most beautiful mountain ranges through which I’ve ever

biked. It is unspoilt and undisturbed and still as God created it. Quietly and peace-

fully, it observed us making our way through its ruggedness. Its mood changed

with clouds casting changing shadows across its hills and valleys. At times the

clouds brushed us with their misty tears, but mostly, just kept us cool from

the very hot Karoo sun.

There are plenty campsites along the way, such as Bruintjieskraal which is located in

a tranquil setting amongst indigenous trees and riverine vegetation on the banks of

the Grootrivier. With its stunning setting, adequate ablutions and fresh mountain

water you can wake up to a magnificent view after am awesome night’s sleep in your

tent under a starlit sky

Not really knowing what to expect when we planned out trip, we opted for an over-

night stay in a house at the top (on the Western side) of the pass. We allowed

ourselves ample time to get there as we weren’t sure how long it would take. We

had no intention of racing through this pristine wilderness area and every intention to

take in as much of it as we could.

We made several stops along the way and having the 4x4 as back-up meant that we

could enjoy cold drinks and snacks all along the way. It also gave us another advantage

which was that it kept the bikes pannier free, which of course meant lighter bikes and

easier all-round handling.

We were mesmerised by the splendor of the Baviaanskloof; miles and miles of gravel

roads, magnificent views, a wide variety of natural fauna and flora plus abundant

bird life.

As far as we could tell we were the only bikes on the T1 that day. We met a couple of

4x4’s along the way but they were few and far between.

We also crossed countless rivers, but we were in luck, as it had not rained in the area

for over a month so the water levels were really low. We crossed all of them without

incident.

Too soon we passed through the second Nature Conservation Gate which also meant

that we were a couple of kilometers away from our overnight accommodation.

The landscape changed to red, layered rock faces and spectacular gorges.

Apparently the gorges are quite easy to reach with most farms in the area having

direct access to them, some with waterfalls and caves with bushman paintings.

We came across a Sex Shoppe, not Ronnie’s, but Julies, and stopped for coffee and

milk tart. The lady who runs it happened to also be the mother of the lady whose house

we were staying in that night, so she organized ‘roosterkoek’ for that evening’s braai

and off we went eager to get off the bike to stretch our legs and recount the day’s

excitement.

    We arrived at ‘Die Langhuis’ at about 14:00 that afternoon. We were met by the owner,

   Hanlie and her kids, under its huge willow tree. We unpacked the 4 x 4 and popped the

   first ice-cold one for the day as we lay on the grass in the shade recounting our adventure

   of the day.

If we had known how much this area offered we would have stayed for at least another

week. In hind sight, I think the best way to do this trip would be to stay at a couple of

places along the way. Perhaps camp for a night or two in one of the campsites at the

start of the Baviaanskloof, then stay for another couple of nights at a campsite or B& B

in the middle section and then again at the top of the pass for a night or two.

No matter which way you do it, what’s certain is that one needs to come for a

leisurely visit and allow ample time to explore the area; go for gorge walks,

swim in the fresh mountain streams and take time out.

On the plus side, we were there for Christmas Eve and waking up in this valley on

Christmas Day made this one of the best mornings of our holiday. This was to be our

last stretch of the trip. From here we would head out of Baviaans, about 74km to

Uniondale for breakfast at the local hotel, then take the amazing trip through the Prins

Alfred’s Pass, onto Knysna and finally arrive back in Patensie.

We packed up and got onto the bikes and reluctantly left our beautiful surroundings.

The valley was quiet as we left, only disturbed by the fading sounds of the

GS engines, as we made our way towards the west.

This last stretch of the trip wasn’t a let-down at all. The road was in good condition,

and the views were still spectacular even though we were driving out of a mountainous

area into the Great Karoo.

If you want to do this trip by ordinary sedan you, it might be advisable to start from

the West, from either Uniondale or Willowmore, and travel as far as the Nature

Conservation gate. You will see great views as you approach the Baviaans and still be

able to overnight in the beautiful valley and experience the glory of its unspoilt

beauty. Not only does it bring you closer to nature but it also brings you closer to

yourself and those around you.

So as I mentioned in the introduction, most people will agree, that once you’ve been

to the Baviaanskloof, you’ll want to go back again and again and again.

End.

Ons ses dae op Nieu-Bethesda in die Karoo sou nie dieselfde gewees het as ons nie op die eerste bewolkte dag op ons BMW GS Adventure motorfiets gespring het en die sirlkelpad rondom die Kompasberg gaan ry het nie.

Bo: ‘n Perfekte sonsondergang met ‘n uitsig oor die Vallei van Verlatenheid geneem op die laaste dag van 2009.

Dus sny ek en my man, Eugene, toe so 10 uur die oggend ‘n lyn uit die dorp. Ek’s heel opgewonde om my rystewe weer terug te hê want ons onlangse trippie deur die Baviaanskloof het my nogals sensitief gelaat vir motorfiets ry. Dis asof mens se boude nooit weer agterop ‘n motorfiets wil sit nie.

Bo: Die teken geen jou ‘n idée van die rigtings soos aangewys uit die middel van die dorp.

Die pad lyk toe darem nie te erg nie en ons is skaars 1 kilometer uit die dorp en my ongerief is lankal vergete. Ek gil van lekkerkry want daar’s darem niks lekkerders as om die veld te ruik en die wind op jou lyf te voel nie. Ons eerste stop is vir ‘n skilpad wat rustig staan en suip aan ‘n plassie water wat oorgestaan het van gisteraand se ligte bui reën. Min het ons geweet dat die skillie net die eerste teken sou wees van ‘n reuse avontuur wat wat hom vandag hier so afspeel.

Na 20 minute se ry stop ons by die groot damwal wat ons vermoed Peet-se-dam moet wees. Peet-se-dam is bekend onder die ouens wat al vir jare hier vakansie hou, en ek is bly ons het hom gekry want  ‘n mens kan nogals kook in die Karoo. Ons swem nie die keer nie want ons is haastig om pad te vat Kompasberg toe. Ek is boonop bekommerd dat Oom Peet ons met sy haelgeweer gaan kom verjaag. Ons het darem toe later uitgevind dat hy ‘n baie vriendelike boer is en selfs vir jou ‘n bier sal aandra as hy jou daar sien swem.

Bo: ‘n Uisig oor die bergagtige vallei-area.

Eugene het die pad Kompasberg vantevore op sy Garmin-kaart bestudeer, en hy meen toe dat mens reg rondom die Kompasberg kan ry. Dis ‘n goed geskraapte grondpad en hy ry maklik. Wel, na Baviaans, is alles makliker.

Bo: Die magies Kompasberg in die verte.

Die eerste ongewone ding op ons pad is dié van ‘n geverfde boomstomp op linkerhand en toe ‘n bietjie verder op regterhand ‘n paar mosterdkleurige arbeidershuisies. Dis spoggerige arbeidershuisies want elkeen het ‘n sonpaneel op die dak en ‘n oulike stoep met ‘n lekker uitsig oor die vallei. Wanneer jy die draai na links neem sien jy ‘n hele paar geboue, ‘n klein kerkie en ‘n groter gebou wat soos ‘n konferensie-plek lyk. Hierdie mense het die regte idée.

En so verras die Karoo ons deurentyd. Elke nou en dan kom ‘n mens af op so ‘n plaas of ‘n ou opstal in die middel van nêrens. Dit verbaas my nie eintlik nie want die area is ongelooflik mooi.  Dis oortrek met duisende klipstapels wat lyk asof hulle met die hand op mekaar gestapel is. Volgens argeoloë is die stapels gevorm agv die feit dat die area vantevore vulkanies was en soos die lawa mettertyd begin wegwas het, is dié ongewone klipstapels nagelaat. Hulle lyk soos figure en dit voel asof ‘hulle’ waghou oor die area.

Bo: ‘n Prentjie-mooi klip opstal gebou uit die plaaslike klip.

‘n Mens sal vergewe word as jy sou dink dat die area droog is maar tot ons verbasing was daar volop water langs die pad te sien. Miskien het dit iets te make met die feit dat die Sondagsrivier sy oorsprong in die vallei het. Nog ‘n aanduiding van water is die populierbosse wat kort-kort ‘n helder groen oase in die andersins rooikleurige Karoo-bossie-gebied skep. Dis ‘n welkome afkoelplek. Sonder die brul van die motorfiets-enjin word jy bewus van die geritsel in die wind en word jy meegesleur deur die blare-sang.

Bo: ‘n Heerlike koel populierbos op een van die verlate plase waarop ons afgekom het.

Volgende ry ons deur ‘n hek wat sê  ‘Eureka Highlands Nature Reserve’ en nie lank daarna nie ry ons verby die afdraai na die plaas ‘Eureka’ (betekenis: Ek het dit gevind) wat weggekruip sit in sy eie populierbos. Dit lyk na ‘n ou familie-plaas want hy het sy eie familie-begraafplaas, ‘n bywonershuis, groot plaashuis en talle opstalle. Ons is sommer in vervoering want ons kan onsself nogals daar sien woon.

Bo: ‘n Klein familie-begraafplaas naby Eureka

Maar laat ek meer vertel van die area. Probeer jou indink, ons ry op ‘n sirkelpad van wes na noord. Links van jou loop die Sondagsrivier en orals is daar klein stroompies te sien wat weer terugloop oor die pad. Op ander plekke is daar spruite wat sommer hulle oog in die gras langs die pad het. Op jou regterkant is kranse met talle grotte wat van die pad af gesien kan word.

Daar is fossiele in die grotte wat 253 miljoen jaar terugdateer.  Op baie plase in die area soos Ganora, word daar begeleide staptoere aangebied waar jy die fossiele van nader kan beskou. Daar is ook heelwat geskiedenis oor die Anglo-Boeroorlog as jy in die tipe ding belangstel.

Bo: Nog ‘n uitsig van die Kompasberg.

Dit neem blykbaar net so oor die 5 ure om die Kompasberg uit te klim, onder tot bo en terug. Dis ‘n redelike tawwe tog maar daar’s ‘n paar moelikheidsgrade om uit te kies, so enigeen kan dit doen.

Ons ry verby ‘n hele paar damme waar die voël-lewe vollop is. Ons sien bloukransvoëls, ‘n magdom eende en ander watervoëls. Nou is ons besig om stadig maar seker om die noordelike punt in ‘n oostelike rigting te ry.

Die Kompasberg is skuins regs voor ons. Oor ‘n paar kilometers sal ons omtrent reg agter hom wees, so dus aan sy noordekant. Die Kompas, meen ons, verwys na die vorm van sy bo-kant wat lyk soos die voorpunt van ‘n sonwyser. Sy skerpste punt wys presies noord en sy agterpunt suid.  Dit is die hoogste berg in die Oos-Kaap met ‘n hoogte van 2502 meter. Ons klim geleidelik hoër en hoër, met elke kilometer wat ons ry. Soms kan ons hom nie sien nie en ander kere is hy die heeltyd aan ons regterkant sigbaar.

Bo: Die plantegroei verander in graslande.

Na die Middelburg afdraai (as jy reguit aanhou ry jy Richmond toe) word ons begroet deur die Bergplaas Natuurgebied wat ‘n heel ander tipe plantegroei het. Die gebied, wat oor die 7000 hektare strek behoort aan Prinses Irene van Nederland, en oor die afgelope paar jaar is dit herstel na die oorspronklike natuurlike landskap van grasvelde en bosse. Die “Spirit of the Wild” program word jaarliks by Bergplaas aangebied wat blykbaar ‘n wonderlike hereniging met moedernatuur te weeg bring in almal wat dit bywoon. Niemand kan die magiese ernergie van die area ontsnap nie.

Bo: So lyk die Kompasberg op ‘n bewolkte dag, van die suidelike kant gesien.

Kort voor lank sien ons ‘n groep  blesbokke wat die heuwels vol staan. Omtrent elke paartjie wat mens sien het ‘n baba by hulle. Anders as die ouers is die babas rooibruin en is hulle skaars sigbaar teen die rooi agtergrond.

Nie veel verder nie sien ons ‘n paar zebras en blouwildebeeste tussen die blesbokke, en toe spring ‘n hele trop springbokke  ligvoetig oor die pad voor ons.

Links: Een van die talle damme op die pad.

Die Karoo is nou maar eenmaal vol verrassings. Dis geheimsinnig en onvoorspelbaar. Daar is ‘n magiese energie wat pronk uit die punt van die Kompasberg. Hy kommandeer aandag en hy kry dit. Hy laat jou magteloos en nederig maar nie sonder om jou te inspireer en te motifeer nie. Hy huts jou aan om verder te gaan, hoër te klim en harder te probeer. Hy praat direk met jou siel, hy verduidelik alles, hy luister en antwoord al jou vrae.

Ons gil van genot oor die laaste paar kilometers, ons het nou net regs gedraai in die rigting van Graaf-Reinet en is net ’n paar kilometers van Nieu-Bethesda af. Ons voel opgewonde oor ons ervaring deur wat seker die mooiste Karoo-landskappe is wat ek nog ooit gesien het.

Bo: Die GS langs die dam waar ek voete afkoel na ons opwindinde dag op die sirkelpad.

Ons stop by ‘n natuurlike dam wat krioel met reuse rivierkrappe maar dis die perfekte afkoelplek na ‘n lang stofpad. Die sirkelpad het ons omtrent vier ure geneem om te ry en dit was beslis elke kilometer daarvan werd.  Ek koel my voete af tussen die krappe terwyl ek hard probeer om die beelde van vandag vir altyd in my geestes- oog vas te vang.

Bo: Ek koel my foete af tussen die krappe.

Terug in Nieu-Bethesda sit ons met ‘n koue drankie en vertel ons vriende van ons ondervinding vandag. Ek verstaan nou vir die eerste keer waarom soveel kunstenaars inspirasie trek uit hierdie area.

Eweskielik bars ‘n Karoo-storm rondom ons los. Die strate oorstroom en die kinders ry rond op hulle fietse met swartsakke oor hulle klere. Ons kry ons tweede asem en vaar met ons kameras in die strate in en loop al met die leivore langs tot by die bruggie naby Helen Martins se agterplaas.

Links: Die donker wolke oor die plaaslike kerkie voor die storm uitbars.

Vir oulaas kyk ons in die rigting van die Kompasberg. Ons voel verreik en geinspireer na vandag se ervaring en word herinner aan ‘n onsigbare kompas wat ons dryf om elke dag nuwe paaie te ontdek.

Einde.

‘Travelling through time, listening to the different sounds of the landscape’ is how I would describe our latest bike trip to ‘The Whitemountain Folk Festival’ in the Drakensberg.

After the long cold winter we were yearning for the outdoors and could think of nothing better to do than to get onto our GS and explore the countryside. The long weekend in September was approaching and our searches for a possible destination turned up ‘The Whitemountain Folk Festival’, an annual music festival held in the Drakensberg. This, to us, was the perfect opportunity to combine our love of music with our love of biking.

(Above): The Whitemountain festival area – set on the edges of the lake.

The long weekend finally arrived and we left Midrand early in the morning with the Garmin in charge. Our excitement was soon replaced by frustration because Eugene (my husband) and the Garmin ‘disagreed’ about the direction in which we were led. (That’s what happens when your man has his own built-in Garmin - which is a good thing of course!) After several stops and starts it was promptly switched off as we decided to use the more conventional ‘Road Atlas’ and took the N3 to Villiers to try and make up for some of the lost time.

(Above): Eugene takes a break to take in the beauty of the landscape.

We stopped for our first cup of coffee in Villiers at an old garage with the most incredible bathroom straight out of the 70s! (If you’re in the movie business, remember this for your next shoot.) Eugene gave the Garmin another chance to recalculate and although not the most spectacular route, at least we were able to get off the N3.

(Above): The serene beauty of the Drakensberg valley.

The scenery became more interesting as we made our way toward Harrismith. We stopped for lunch at the Ultra City where we didn’t linger too long as we were keen to get back onto the bike to tackle the last stretch of our journey. But our excitement was short-lived when Eugene noticed that the Garmin battery had run flat. The charger wasn’t working and we were left with no choice but to rejoin the traffic on the N3 to Estcourt.

(Above): The lake view at the Blue Haze Country Lodge.

I held onto Eugene as we took the tar and followed the endless white line. The smell of rubber and tyres were absolutely nauseating. I don’t understand why anyone would like to bike on tar. It is harsh and hot and impersonal and most of all, very dangerous. We took the first off-ramp and went onto the dirt road to its left. It turned out to be a great little detour to Estcourt. It took us just under 7 hours to get to Blue Haze Country Lodge where we joined our friends, Gus and Val, who did the journey by car.

(Above): Festival goers enjoying the sights and sounds of great local music.

We left for Whitemountain an hour later as we were keen to reach our intended destination. The setting was beautiful. A huge white tent, that dominated the festival area, was being used as the main stage.

(Above): Festival goers enjoying the music and food whilst relaxing in the beautiful surroundings.

It was surrounded by several smaller yummy food and drink stalls, as well as clothing stalls selling brightly coloured tie-dyed clothes, music CDs (of the artists performing in the main tent), crystals and amazing belts and jewelry made from recycled bicycle tyres. In the centre of it all, two huge bon-fire areas were created with spaces to chill on rugs and enjoy the spectacular scenery. We felt right at home amongst the other music-lovers who came to enjoy the laid-back vibes, and were completely absorbed by the wonderful sights and sounds of the festival.

(Above): Another spectacular Blue Haze view.

Our stay at Blue Haze on the first night was okay but personally, I prefer staying in a place where they don’t remove my food before I’ve finished my meal and my towels before I’ve brushed my teeth. But in their defense they had a wedding to worry about and we were probably just in their way. We packed our bike and left for the next B&B we booked, called Antbear Guesthouse.

(Above) The main house at Antbear Guest House.

We travelled for a couple of kilometers along the incredible Drakensberg foothills. They were busy with roadworks on the route we chose to Antbear but it did not detract from the stretches of beautiful scenery and the curvy bends were perfect for biking.

(Above):  On the road to Estcourt we came across a creative alternative for a farm gate.

We visited Estcourt, the town that is not just famous for its  bacon but also its instant coffee. Anyone who has been there before will instantly associate the town with the smell of instant coffee. These huge coffee silos are the main landscape feature of this little metropolis.

Just in case you are interested in the geology of the Drakensberg; it is a remnant of what is known as the ‘African plateau’. The mountains are capped by a layer of basalt with sandstone lower down, resulting in a combination of steep-sided blocks and pinnacles. History has it that to early foreign travelers they looked like the back of a dragon and to the local folk more like a barrier of spears.

The ride to Antbear Guest Lodge was great and it really put us into the right mood for exploring. As we arrived the owner, Andrew, welcomed us at the door of the main house and made us feel right at home. I felt an instant sense of belonging, maybe because it reminded me of the farm in the Whiteriver area, where we got married.

(Above): The forest in the background – of course the GS had to find a strategic spot close to our cottage!

Antbear was peaceful and serene and to our delight, no wedding guests in sight! The main house with its large farm kitchen, lounge and dining room is surrounded by thatched cottages. The lodge is built high up on a natural plato that overlooks the Bushman’s River and Giants Castle.

(Above): The inside of our cottage with the beautiful hand-made wooden cupboard and door.

The rooms are furnished with hand-made wood-crafted furniture by Andrew’s father, the ingenious sculptor, Bruce Attwood.

(Above): A quiet corner in the main house featuring more of the incredible hand-made furniture by Bruce Atwood.

The information Andrew provided about the area was very helpful as we weren’t familiar with the area at all. He told us that it is ‘divided’ into four valleys, starting with the Champagne Valley in the Central Berg, through to Cathedral Peak and Didima Valley, then the Royal Natal National Park and Amphitheatre Valley, and finally the Middledale Pass Valley in the North.

(Above): Eugene and I on our way to explore the Drakensberg Valley.

We couldn’t wait to start exploring so we took a ride out to Giants Castle. We slowly made our way towards the mountain which was great for taking in the spectacular scenery. Gus and Val were following us in their car, and I was sorry that they could not share the fantastic feeling of travelling on a bike.

At Giants Castle we were met by the friendly staff at the gate and paid a small fee to enter the nature reserve. We decided to take ‘River Bend Walk’ which took us about an hour and a half. It was wonderful and refreshing and to be honest, we could do with the exercise! We gulped down fresh mountain water and let our feet dangle in the cold mountain stream. Invigorated and refreshed we made the steep walk back to the parking area and got back onto the bike to get to the festival for the late afternoon performances.

(Above): We loved this sign at the Giant’s Castle parking area.

We loved the music and I can honestly say that the festival was everything we expected. It became clear why it’s been around for so many years. I am sure that the ‘The Redhand Blues Band’, ‘Jozi Field’ and’ Catlike Thieves’ will one day be famous household names.

(Above): The Whitemountain camping site from a distance.

After three days of exploring the valley and hearing enough music to satisfy our desire for a music festival for at least another year, we turned the bike towards the Northern Berg. We were keen to see what the Middledale Pass Valley had to offer. We took the R74 to Ennersdale; drove through Drycott, then Loskop and Bergville after which we turned right onto the dirt road to Geluksburg. The road was relentless, covered with loose stones and gravel, and it took a lot of effort and hard work to keep the bike stable and on track.

(Above): A view of the Wagendrift dam.

(Above): The GS once again proved its worth on the dirt road towards Geluksburg.

After a good work out on the back of the bike and a couple of slippery incidents involving forestry roadworks, we finally reached the town of Geluksburg. We were immediately intrigued by its rare beauty and quiet streets (apart from the frantic barking of a neighborhood dog).

(Above): The best example of recycled architecture; the wall in the front of this house in Geluksburg is made of plastic cool drink bottles.

History books tell us that Geluksburg is associated with what was once known as ‘The White Tribe of The Lost Valley’. The story goes that after Piet Retief passed over the Retief Pass (which is only a few kilometers away from Geluksburg) in 1837, about five of the families that travelled with him were left by the wayside. Nobody knows how this happened, but afraid of being butchered by the British and Zulus, they apparently took refuge under the sandstone rock faces of the Northern Berg.

There they stayed, for over 115 years, until they were discovered by a Rand Daily Mail journalist in the 1950s. They were apparently living in a weird time-warp; in wattle-and-daub hovels that they carved out of the mountain sides, no running water, no candles or any such ‘luxury’ – and of course, no chance of an education. Strange but true – the last living tribe member only died a couple of years ago.  Today one of the only reminders of this ‘lost’ community is a man-made suspension bridge which, unbelievably, is still in working order. It can be found at the bottom of Retief’s Pass close to the statue of the ‘Kaalvoet Vrou’ (Barefoot Woman).

(Above): More beautiful views of the Northern Drakensberg Valleys.

After exploring Geluksburg we got back onto the road and started making our through the Middledale Pass. This part of valley has a rare kind of beauty and is certainly worth exploring. It is covered in sandstone ridges, one after the next, with vast and expansive grasslands and no visible sign of water, which I suppose, made it feel quite desolate at times. The map showed that apart from the Middledale Pass there are also two other passes, Bezuidenhoudt’s and Oliviershoek. Unfortunately we had no time left to explore the area but we’d love to come back one day and explore all three.

(Above) An abandoned and burnt out 1956 Plymouth Belvedere Sedan on a deserted field on the Middledale Pass.

Reflecting on our trip I realise once again how rich our country is in history, and that history, just like music, speaks in slow soft tones of landscapes ever changing, of conviction and of bravery, of epic struggles and of conquered lands.

As modern-day bikers, we were indeed fortunate to unlike our forbearers explore our countryside in such comfort as on a BMW GS motorbike, not forgetting the handy GPS!

End

For the ‘not so’ faint-hearted among us.

[BMW Motorrad training – Zwartkopz Race Track]

I know the guys won’t understand what I mean but I must admit to learn to ride was quite a challenge for me. Maybe it was all those years of sitting on the back and becoming a pillion rider that made me lazy to learn to ride. Most guys learn to ride when they’re in their teens through their brother’s, friend’s brothers, uncles or if in luck, their fathers showing them where the throttle and breaks were before sending them off to ride.

So in support of my life long love of the open road and my wish to become an independent rider my friends clubbed together for my birthday and gave me the 2-day Novice Training Course with the BMW Motorrad Rider Trainer Academy at the Zwartkopz Race Track.


ABOVE: CHEZ AND KERSEY OUR TWO TRAINERS

Gone was the laziness and on was the two-day Novice training. Although a bit apprehensive I was excited at the prospect of learning something new. We were a team of 5 people, 4 women and 1 guy who arrived for training. After a brief introduction to our two instructors, Chez Van Dijk and Kersey Blofield, we were ushered into the training room. We learnt about the bare basics of a bike; the different parts, the throttle, clutch, gear shift, front breaks etc. Then about soft hands, bent arms and SINEPS (switch on, ignition on, neutral light on, engine kill on run, pull in clutch, starter button) and counter-steering.

Finally we were sent to the parking lot where we could ride the little 250cc delivery type bikes. At first we were pushed on our bikes keeping the engine off and the bike in neutral. This helped us to get the hang of controlling and balancing the bike. Once we got that right we moved onto the next step which was to go through the SINEPTS steps. We practiced this and when we were able to go down the straight, were taught to turn the corner. We were then taught to change into 1^st gear and switch into 2^nd and 3^rd. We practiced this over and over again and trust me, they could not have sent us around the track enough times because you think you get it and then you don’t! I know this sounds extremely basic but it is not easy when you’re doing it for the first time, so practise does build confidence,that's for sure.


ABOVE: THE BRAND NEW YAMAHA 250CC BIKES

Exhilarated from riding around we had a quick hot dog lunch and then were taken around the course following Chez around the track. That’s when we got the real feeling for the first time.

Of the 5 trainees 3 of us had no problem riding the little bikes, one found it hard to turn and the 5^th could not find her balance. Kerry, my friend who joined me for the training, was a complete natural. She had no fear and nothing could stop her from having a great time. She wants to get a Harley Davidson, the leathers and the tassels and go for the low rider lifestyle. Our resident spunky doctor, Wilhene, has dreams of riding fast bikes on the highways of life, and the only guy in our group dreams of becoming a superbike rider one day. At the end of day one we recount our experiences of the first day of training and have a celebratory drink to the fact that we can all now ride a bike. But we also know that we’re a long way away from our brothers, boyfriends and husbands who have years of road and off-road riding experience.

It’s Friday morning and we’re gathering outside the training room with our mugs of hot coffee and discussing the possibility or riding one of the BMWs on the showroom floor today. I remember how we looked at the parked bikes yesterday; from a distance, too scared to get too close to them, not even contemplating to get onto them. But this morning it’s a complete different story. I get onto my favourite, the brand new GS650 twin. I don’t like the colour but the bike feels great. This is when I decide that I want to get the 650GS twin when I’ve completed my training.


ABOVE:THE TRAINER SHOWS US HOW TO GO AROUND THE ORANGE CONES

But we’re soon pulled back into reality for some serious rider training theory and this time it’s all about biker behaviour. What to look out for when you’re riding on the road, where to the take the turn, about look there and go there, visibility, overtaking and following distance. It’s what to do when approaching intersections, it’s about changing lanes, it’s about where to take the bend and it’s about the road surface. We look at each other with big eyes. It sounds so scary! We question ourselves as to why we’d like to ride a bike again. It’s tuff out there, it’s dangerous, and it demands full concentration and full awareness. It’s not for sissies, it’s also not for the faint-hearted. The theory that Chaz teaches us shows us the importance of rider safety and behaviour, something your older brother or friend did not teach you when they taught you to ride back in the day. We come to realise that this kind of training is essential if you want to survive on the road.


ABOVE: ONE OF THE STUDENTS GOING THROUGH THEM PACES

With all of this fresh in our minds we’re off to the riders track. We go around the course doing different things, we ziz-zag through orange cones; left, right, left, right, left, right, around the left bend to the top stop. Clutch in, break in, gear down to 1st, stop, into 2^nd, then into 3^rd, clutch in, gear down and stop. Chez takes us through the drill, over and over till he sees we improve and then he gives us another exercise. Left cone, right cone, round the bend, back to 1st, right foot on the right break, left foot down, clutch in, into 1^st, 2^nd , 3^rd and 4^th. We go around an around and around, learning with every round. We learn to break and we do emergency stops, we learn to counter balance, we ride with our arms on our helmets, we shoot our left leg out as we go right around the cone and right leg out as we go around the left, we repeat this over and over, till we get it. Sometimes we do, other times we don’t. We keep going, we keep practicing. We’re doing this to build confidence.

Till we pick up some speed and then he stops us. He tells me to get off my bike and to get onto the blue 650GS, the one I want to buy. I start it and then he tells me to take it round the track. It’s like getting into a Mercedes. It’s pure luxury. I’m sitting high up in the air, the controls are smooth, the tyres glide softly, it’s like heaven, it’s the best, Chaz signals for me to do another round, I keep going, I go a bit faster, it feels great, I love it, I want it, this is the best feeling ever. I finally get off to give the other’s turn to ride it as well. ‘WOW’, I say when I get off the GS650, ‘this is why we came on this training course, this is the reason I want to ride’. The adrenalin rushes through by body, I shake with excitement. I want to get back onto the GS650, I want to do this again, and again and again.

End